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28 January 2013

Menswear F/W 2013 Collections

If you haven't noticed, this has been a long overdue post that I've been meaning to write, considering the fact that Couture week has already passed. In any case, I forced myself to post this because of how much I loved this year's menswear collections. 

Alexander McQueen 
Burton seems to be upping the theatricality of the McQueen shows especially with the menswear this season with the statement "saran wrap" masks, the severe hair and the uncanny setting of the show. Strict and disciplined tailoring celebrates McQueen's training at Savile Row with Burton subverting this strength into a modern adaptation of traditional menswear.

Burberry Prorsum
Christopher Bailey's presentation at Burberry is a nod to their classics notably their outerwear and trench coats. However, it's good to see that despite the show being called "I ♥ Classics", Bailey has interpreted their key pieces in a new way. The show ended with one of my favourite jackets I've seen in a while. Made of latex, the coats have the sensibility of a leather jacket while maintaining the transparency of a lighter fabric.

3.1 Phillip Lim
The bold prints at 3.1 Phillip Lim are balanced with simple wardrobe staples that give off an urban vibe. What I like about this collection is how easy it is to pull of these looks on the street. Backpacks go hand in hand with the material of the pants, giving it a city practicality that I'm sure anyone would appreciate.

Christophe Lemaire
The nature of Christophe Lemaire's "easy chic" menswear collection is a refreshing change to the military tailoring that has been all over the menswear shows last week. Despite the relaxed tailoring and soft fabrics, the looks themselves maintain a masculine attire while offering a sartorial edge.

Christopher Kane
When Christopher Kane's male customers started to order the Frankenstein print shirt from his womenswear collection, it was natural for him to produce one for the opposite sex. Already gaining a following on street style blogs, the print itself is further explored with animal prints appearing on coats and sportswear looking hoodies. I asked all the guys in my class and they agreed that unlike most collections seen on the runway, this collection is actually something they would wear. Thumbs up all the way!

Gucci
In contrast, I also appreciate some good old military jackets from time to time. In my mind, any guy should appreciate strict military tailoring as it accentuates the figure of a man. It's just like finding the right dress to show off all the right curves in a women. Gucci's colour palette hits the mark in my mind as it gives a new dimension to the wardrobe staples like military jackets and tailored pants.

Christopher Shannon

The first thing I like about Christopher Shannon is the blue in his menswear collection. Of course, there are also many other likeable things like the "patchwork" pants and the zipper shoulders that can be detached from the shirt itself. In a way, it reminds me of Sarah Burton's S/S 2011 RTW show at Alexander McQueen with the slashed shoulders as a reinterpretation of Lee's infamous pagoda shoulders. Kudos to his sense of humour and the easy styling of his separates.

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