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16 July 2013

MENSWEAR Spring Summer 2014 Trend Report


Here's a trend report that I've been working on for the past 2 weeks for the menswear collections for spring 2014. While I understand that over half the readers of Cut & Copy are predominantly female, I still hope that I can also cater to the sartorial male. Though I admit that it's not as exciting as the womenswear collections, the Spring collections for men are definitely becoming more fun for those who enjoy basking in the glory of street style photographers. From what I have seen, there's a metallic comeback that I didn't expect to see again, relaxed "pyjama" tailoring, florals, patchwork and a whole lot of blue. Scroll below for the complete report!

From left: Vivienne Westwood // Sacai // Yohji Yamamoto // Band of Outsiders // Umit Benan // Kolor // MAN

I've noticed that menswear has decidedly taken a turn for relaxed tailoring - so relaxed in fact that it's appropriate for the bedroom. A loose fitting shirt is perfect for those warm summer days whereas you can also layer it with a coat from Umit Benan or a tailored pyjama jacket Ă  la Sacai. Pants are equally as comfortable with Band of Outsiders and MAN showing pyjama looking prints on their version of loose fitting pants. Feel a little out of place with this trend? Accessorise this otherwise "dishevelled" look with a pair of dress shoes or matching trainers for a stylish statement.

From left: Kolor // Gucci // Dries van Noten // Diesel // Ann Demeulemeester // Junya Watanabe // Marc Jacobs // Marc Jacobs // Meadham Kirchhoff // Prada // 3.1 Phillip Lim

I couldn't believe it when I saw florals appear in the menswear collections while we've already seen our fair share of crazy prints in the past. While womenswear were showered with florals of every colour known to man, the men had a more forgiving muted palette from Gucci's earthy looking branches to Ann Demeulemeester's gothic prints. Those looking for some light hearted fun can turn their attention to Marc Jacobs and Meadham Kirchoff with "traditional" floral prints.
From left: James Long // Opening Ceremony // Thom Browne // John Galliano // 3.1 Phillip Lim // Maison Martin Margiela // Dior Homme // Diesel

Definitely a trend that I'd like to try myself, patchwork tailoring has showed up in several menswear collections from Thom Browne's over-the-top toy soldier uniform to Dior's two tone sleeveless coat. With such an attention seeking look, one should keep their outfit simple for the patch-worked piece to stand out. Of course, you can also go head-to-toe in a patchwork suit as long as your colour scheme doesn't hurt my eyes.
From left: Prada // Saint Laurent // Haider Ackermann // Dior Homme // E.Tautz // Jonathan Saunders // Dolce & Gabbana

I admit that I was a fan of the futuristic metallic trend that was all the rage back in 2007. Fast forward to 2013, shiny fabrics have become on trend again but in a wide array of colours and treatments. Prada's shiny boxing shorts differ greatly from the stiffness of a Jonathan Saunders' coat. In any case, it's a metallic carnival all over again!
From left: Iceberg // Christopher Shannon // Agi & Sam // Calvin Klein // Burberry Prorsum // 3.1 Phillip Lim // Issey Miyake // Giorgio Armani // Jil Sander

Every shade of blue has made an appearance in the spring collections from cobalt to midnight blue. Definitely an easier trend to try out, it's perfect for those who want to make a statement without the flamboyant extravagance of accessories. The turquoise top from Phillip Lim is one of my favourites because of its easy-to-wear versatility. Otherwise, the well tailored biker jacket from Iceberg would also do just fine in my wardrobe.
From left: J.W. Anderson // J.W. Anderson // Rick Owens // Christopher Shannon // Comme des Garçons

Grunge has always been a staple at the menswear collections but long gone are the all black pieces that covered every inch of the human body. Instead, we see a makeshift crop top (for men) and shear fabrics introduced for a lighter interpretation for spring. Also worth noting are the clean silhouettes on Rick Owens' runway that makes complete sense for summer. On the other hand, I couldn't resist the dishevelled suits from Comme des Garçons which, combined with their hair and makeup, looks like another impending zombie apocalypse.
From left: Christopher Shannon // Issey Miyake // Kenzo // Paul Smith // Walter van Beirendonck // Jil Sander // Calvin Klein // Prada // Moschino // Lou Dalton // Issey Miyake // Givenchy

Raf Simons is really hitting his stride with his well received Dior appointment and a menswear collection that was also a critical success. Most memorable were his elongated tees with pop references and the occasional advertisement on the side of a shirt. Riccardo Tischi over at Givenchy presented a collection that combined techno looking prints with a sense of tribalism - my favourite being the Jeff Koons sweatshirt with the collaged flag that perhaps will become a street style "it" item. Calvin Klein's surreal landscapes were interjected with a minimalist rectangle that Tumblr fans will go crazy over. Issey Miyake's Mondrian-inspired suit and Keith Haring shirt and Kenzo's Cy Twombly sweatshirt were all but a few artists that were also seen on the runways. Talk about wearable art...

From left: Salvatore Ferragamo // Kenzo // Kris van Assche // Givenchy // Shaun Samson // Moncler Gamme Bleu // James Long // Rick Ownes // Sibling // Dsquared2

And last but not least, a key trend that has also given women the freedom of wearing trainers is everyone's favourite sportswear trend. From mesh jackets to items that remind you of your earlier days at college, sportswear items are a must-have in any season. Practicality is the word here with sweatshirts and shorts dominating the collections for spring. Graphic lines also make an appearance which provide an alternative to having a football looking squad number emblazoned at the front.

4 comments :

  1. Wow, this is a great read! As part of the minority of your reader demographic, I appreciate the effort you put in this post! Personally I've really dived into the Sportswear and Pop print trends lately - New Balance trainers have particularly been on my radar.

    Keep up the good content!

    Justin
    www.mrwalkntalk.com

    ReplyDelete
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    1. Thanks man! Really appreciate your comment :D

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  2. i giggled when i read 50 shades of blue :)
    i hv no idea how much time you spent on making these collages. i knw it is hard!!!

    christian | my blog :
    www.christianyuen.blogspot.com
    greetings from hong kong
    peace.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for liking the post! Yeah it took ages but the end result looks great if I do say so myself haha
      WOW
      Your blog is amazing!! I literally read everything you've posted xD

      Delete