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8 March 2014

FASHION | Nicolas Ghesquière's debut collection for Louis Vuitton Fall 2014

Alas, the much anticipated return of Nicolas Ghesquière is here! After the announcement of his new appointment at Louis Vuitton, I was glad to know that the man behind Balenciaga's Darth Vadar visor caps from Spring 2012 was back to start a new legacy. For those who don't remember, Ghesquière single-handedly transformed the French house into the relevant and street-style savvy brand that it is today with his strong understanding of Balenciaga's design codes - namely the voluptuous cocoon silhouettes and the empire waist.

Come Fall 2014, Ghesquière returns with a collection at Louis Vuitton balancing his infamous  silhouettes with the timelessness and heritage of the brand.

The first few looks that came down the runway was met with a flurry of smartphones snapping away on Instagram. It was not surprising given Harpers Bazaar's proclamation as the new "it" bag, the petit-malle, debuted here on the hands of Danish model Freja Beha Erichsen. My instant reaction upon seeing the looks was one that looked back at the longstanding travel-centric heritage of the French trunk-making brand. Ghesquière understandably takes a nod at the 80s with items such as Alpine sweaters, large collared coats and Nordic prints all reminiscent of a ski-trip to Aspen. Together with a new portable version of Vuitton's infamous trunks made it clear that Louis Vuitton was taking its audience on a new voyage.
What struck me about this collection was the ease and effortlessness that each look carried. Clean, streamlined shapes and retail-freindly separates were a breath of fresh air, appealing to those who juggle between work and play with no time to change in-between. A-line skirts were the predominant silhouette, interspersed with coats of different exotic skins. Leather, a staple at Louis Vuitton, was thoughtfully used in the accents as well as the later part of the collection which bordered slightly on fetishism (glossy leather pants OMG).
Of course, the clothes above can hardly be categorised as S&M gear. Hardly at all... What serves as a subtle hint of fetish is only a reminder that Ghesquière designs for a certain type of women. And luckily for them, Ghesquière ensures that these strong, independent individuals are catered for with a wide selection of 'armour' fit for the 21st century.

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